![]() HOW CAN I COMPARE NITROGEN IN TWO BAGS OF FERTILIZER? Don’t overlook Teddy Bear or Little Gem dwarf southern magnolias. I’d go with a 3- or 5-trunk specimen of one of the large varieties. Or, if anything happens to the one trunk and it is broken, it’s difficult to retrain the tree back to one trunk. They can become top heavy and lose their symmetry. As much as I love the plants in general, single-trunk specimens are too much of a risk. And I’m not a huge fan of single-trunk crape myrtles. It and rusty blackhaw viburnums are really shrubs (as was your vitex in all probability), so you’ll have a hard time looking at them as trees. Saucer magnolia would really need to have shade from late morning on in Irving. You didn’t ask for any opinions on the trees you mentioned, so please forgive me. Then plant your new tree several feet farther into the yard and let this one die and decay. You could refill the holes a week later just to get an ample amount into the stump. If you were careful not to split the sides of the stump it would not go into the soil. It would soak through the wood and down through the roots. Blow out the sawdust and fill the fresh holes with a broadleafed weedkiller (containing 2,4-D). You could also drill finger-sized holes into the old stump. Now that I’ve scared you sufficiently, there might be an easier way out of this issue. You may still have to figure a way to wrap a heavy chain around the roots and stump and pull the stump using a very low gear. Don’t let your chain saw dip into the soil. Otherwise, you’ll need to dig it out by hand with a sharpshooter spade and a long-handled axe and a pruning saw. It probably would have meant taking down one section of fencing temporarily so you could pull from the alley.)Īt this point the easiest thing to do would be to hire an arborist with a stump grinding machine to remove it for you. (You would probably have had to cut the larger lateral roots first, however. of the trunk so you could hook a heavy chain around it and pull it out when the ground was soft. It would have been easier if you had left 12-15 in. Candace G., Irving.Īnswer: You need to get the old roots out of there. What can we do? We don’t want to poison the soil. We want to plant a small ornamental tree this fall, perhaps a redbud, rusty blackhaw viburnum, single-trunk crape myrtle or saucer magnolia, but we don’t want vitex shoots coming up everywhere. Question: We recently had to cut down our large tree-form vitex, and the stump is regrowing aggressively. HOW DO WE COPE WITH VITEX SPROUTS WHEN WE PLANT A NEW TREE? I must have your first name or initials.For example, plant IDs seldom make the cut. I choose those of greatest general interest.Watch for your answer in the following week’s e-gardens.Please use this only for posting questions – not for standard emails.We can only accept a set number of questions each week, and when we get duplicates it costs other people their chances. Please ONLY POST YOUR QUESTION ONE TIME.Please DO NOT SEND THUMBNAIL PHOTOS in case I need to zoom in to see things. After you submit your question, a new window will pop up giving you the address to which you can e-mail a SHARP, HIGH-RESOLUTION PHOTO to accompany your question. Click the link provided below to post your question.If you have already submitted your question and didn’t see the pop-up window, please click here.) (Note: You may need to allow a pop-up window to come up in order to get the link for sending your photo(s). ![]() Ensure good air movement around the crown.(Please read these instructions carefully.)īefore you post your question, please look at recent issues to see if someone else has already asked it. When watering, be careful not to drip onto the leaves. Repeat the spraying in two weeks.Īvoid overwatering the magnolia and allow the soil to dry out a little between waterings. Spray the leaves and petioles with an aqueous solution of copper fungicide. Throw away any damaged leaves far away from the yard. Collect all of the fallen leaves around the magnolia. The first thing to do is to remove leaves that are more than half brown. If the leaf is heavily infested, there can be so many spots that they create a large brown area on the leaf. ![]() Over time, this spot becomes increasingly pale until the tissue dies and a brown spot appears. Usually in spring, when the weather is warm and humid, the pathogens settle on young leaves and begin to germinate. As a result, their appearance is severely damaged, although it is rarely fatal to the tree. A fairly large variety of pathogens can cause magnolia leaf disease. ![]()
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